Mittwoch, 7. Januar 2015

Dlacion de Frea

Wet summer - dry winter 


After a bad start finally it seems like some rare ice lines are forming. I was very delighted to read on Facebook that near Passo Gardena there was a new ice line that had been discovered and first ascended by Lukas Rungaldier.

So on the fifth of january I decided to climb the new line together with Jacopo Larcher. As we got to the parking place we saw that there already was another car there and some minutes later we saw three guys descending towards us. We recognized them, it was Martin, Alex and Titus. "You like to start late?" said Martin smiling. "Of always" I answered. Then the wished us good luck and we started our 10 minutes approach walk to the base of the climb...perfect :-).
The climbing was very good and after about three hours we were down at the base again.

The route is not that long (four pitches) perfect for a nice afternoon climb.
First pitch has just a short steep section, a perfect warm-up. The second pitch offers very nice climbing on quite thin caulyflower ice with a delicate section at the end. Then again an easier pitch, but still on thin ice, leads to crux pitch. This last pitch is very short but nonetheless demanding: a short dry section followed by delicate and thin caulyflower ice lead to the end ot the gully.
 From there with two abseils we returned to the base of the route

Congratulations and a big thank you to Lukas for finding and sharing this line with us.

Second pitch
Second pitch from above
Second pitch from above
Second pitch from above

Secon pitch from above

Third Pitch
Last pitch

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