Mittwoch, 1. Oktober 2014

Prima Ballerina - Cima Piccola

28.09.2014

Autumn has come and thus the good weather. 

  

Fortunately it's not always necessary to do long approaches to climb good routes in the Dolomites. So Thomas and I chose a route that was on our wishlist and met our requirements. So the choice fell on "Prima Ballerina", a very nice bolted route on the southface of Cima Piccola di Lavaredo. The route was fist ascended by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer in 2012. It offers 11 very nice pitches on steep dolomite-rock up to 7b (6c+, 7a, 6c, 7b, 6c+, 7b, 6b+, 6c+, 6b+, 5c, 4a). We had a really pleasant day (except for some stonefall and some funeral-trompet-music) and both managed to onsight/flash the route.
The day before we climbed a nice classic line, the Eisenstecken on the Mugoni (Rosengarten). A route that (like other Eisenstecken-routes)  is worth visiting if you want to experience how hard a classic grade six on not perfect rock can be :-).