Montag, 4. August 2014

Grundschartner - North ridge - Mittergrat

As this weekend I had to go to Innsbruck to visit some friends I took the opportunity to do a climb I aimed to do for differnet years: the Mittergrat on the Grundschartner (3061 m). It is said that this route is one of the best granite climbs in Tirol and besides it is one of Walter Pause's extreme classic climbs! The starting point to climb the ridge is Häusling in the Zillertal. The aproach is pretty long, almost 1500m. The climbing is mostly about UIAA  IV  with some pitches graded V and one or two pitches  graded VI (depends on the topo). Fortunately the weather was good enough and so after a unconfortable night on the front seat of my car I started at about 8.15. After having passed the Bodenalm I didn't take the best way up but someway I got to the begining of the ridge. The climbing, mostly on not very steep terrain along cracks was very nice and sometimes very exposed especially at the begining. At about 12.45, after 1,5h climbing I reached the summit. The descent is rather long (and even longer if you get a bad description on internet...)and so it took me two an a half more hours to get back to the car. All in all a great day in the mountains!

(Gear: 50m kervlar rope, rapel device, 2 karabiners 1 quickdraw, light harness, climbing shoes, chalk bag, 3 slings, beanie, gloves, down vest, jacket, 1,5l water, some energy bars)


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